Few items in a wardrobe carry the storied gravitas of a waxed cotton jacket, a masterstroke of both protection and panache. These jackets are not merely garments; they are cloaks of adventure, layered with tales of exploration, resilience, and timeless elegance.

As venerable as the adventurers who once donned them, waxed cotton jackets have transcended their utilitarian roots to become iconic symbols of endurance and style. At Arc & Iveagh, with our publication, The Chronicles, we celebrate this narrative power—telling stories of captivating people, fascinating places, and a culture that exude both ruggedness and sophistication.

Enter Raffael Flores-Contreras, whose workshop in the vibrant enclave of Bushwick is a haven where these cherished jackets meet their artisan match. His mastery transforms timeworn fabric into rejuvenated splendor, polishing each piece into something storied and breathtakingly handsome.

As we delve into the intricacies of waxed cotton, exploring its historic legacy alongside Raffael’s artistry, we uncover the alchemy that elevates these jackets from mere outerwear to treasured investment pieces. Brands like Malin & Son, Oily Jack, and Raffael’s own, Raw Meat & Repair, offer a testament to this enduring appeal, championing the care and restoration that preserve their illustrious narratives for future generations.

If you’re already a waxed cotton aficionado (unlike me, who was still trying to figure out the difference between a field jacket and a trialmaster upon the writing of this issue), feel free to bypass my ramblings and dive right into the interview with Raffael via the Table of Contents above.

The Alluring Legacy of Waxed Cotton Jackets

The legacy of waxed cotton jackets is steeped in history, originating from their practical application in maritime and outdoor environments and innovated into the more modern sense during the 19th century. Originally used by sailors and fishermen as far back as the 15th century, the fabric was treated with oils and waxes to create a waterproof barrier, allowing them to brave the harshest conditions at sea. As this resilient textile crossed over into the realm of outdoor wear, it became a go-to choice for explorers and adventurers tackling the unforgiving landscapes of the British countryside and beyond.

By the early 20th century, waxed cotton had solidified its status as a reliable outerwear option, favored for its combination of durability and water resistance. Over time, it transitioned from utilitarian origins to a refined menswear (and womenswear) staple, merging rugged flair with contemporary style. This enduring appeal has seen brands like Barbour & Belstaff become the Ralph Lauren’s of the waxed cotton world, exemplifying the craftsmanship that celebrates both tradition and modernity.

What’s been fascinating to learn about this jacket style is the meticulous care and attention its owners dedicate to their garments—very much akin to the passion seen in fine art collecting or vintage car restoration; there are highly sought after relics, five and six decades old, that collectors and enthusiasts spend months having someone restore. (This piece on Esquire talks about the Weird World of Barbour Jacket Collectors and its hardcore fanbase.)

And from this, a burgeoning sub-economy is emerging that embraces slow fashion and conscious consumption; championing the quality these investment-worthy pieces were designed for, while simultaneously reducing waste.

This movement, advocated by brands like Raw Meat & Repair in the US, Malin & Son or Oily Jack in the UK, showcases artisanal craftsmanship in rewaxing, repair, and restoration, emphasizing the value of extending the life of garments rather than discarding them. By investing in these practices, we honor the artistry of sustainability and the enduring appeal of well-crafted outerwear.

Unpacking the Charm of Waxed Cotton

Diving into the world of waxed cotton felt a bit like stepping into a British countryside brochure I’d only seen too much recently through the carefully curated filters of Instagram, particularly those Barbour ads featuring models effortlessly navigating the great outdoors. My understanding of waxed cotton was rudimentary at best—a mere aesthetic associated with tweeds, tartans, and morning strolls with well-behaved hounds.

But as I peeled back the layers, I soon discovered that waxed cotton is so much more than just a stylish façade. Essentially, it’s a marriage of classic cotton fabric treated with wax to make it breathable yet remarkably weather-resistant. Think of it as the superhero of textiles, ready to face the elements, rain or shine, while you casually pose in the most picturesque settings. The magic lies in the layering of wax, which not only provides water resistance but also contributes to the fabric's unique character over time. Key quality markers, such as thread count and wax layer thickness, play crucial roles in determining a jacket's longevity.

What really caught my eye, however, was the intriguing concept of patina—the beautiful aging that occurs during wear, transforming a jacket into a unique piece of art. Each crease and mark tells its own story, showcasing a life lived well, rather than just an Instagram highlight reel. Iconic styles like the field jacket and Trialmaster (yes, I now know what this is) embody both rugged utility and timeless charm, reminding me that there’s a lot more behind that waxed finish than meets the eye—or the feed.

And, speaking of field jackets—considered by many to be the stalwarts of outdoor style—they often showcase these attributes of quality, durability and story-telling. Because of this, I really wanted to include my own variation in our launch collection— one that not only pays homage to familiar styles but also features distinctive design and trim details that distinguish it from those offered by larger brands.

Donned the Cairngorms Field Explorer Jacket. It will feature a beautiful, waxed cotton sourced from a prestigious 160-year-old mill out of Northeast Scotland, Halley Stevensons—a leader in innovation, craftsmanship, and heritage for weatherproof fabrics, and we are proud to share that story within this jacket. Stay tuned for more of the details we’ll unveil later this summer as we approach the release of the Fall Collection—but just know, every aspect in this jacket has been carefully thought through to ensure it captures the very best of both the Highlands and investment-worthy menswear.

Choosing & Caring for Your Waxed Cotton Jacket

Choosing and caring for a waxed cotton jacket might seem straightforward, but I can assure you, from someone who knew next to nothing on the subject just a year ago, it’s a world all its own.

When selecting a quality jacket of this type, look beyond the rugged aesthetic; focus on the fabric, the craftsmanship, and the fit. Pay attention to details like stitching, pockets, and lining. A well-constructed jacket should feel like a cocoon of comfort, not too tight but also not draped over you like an overcoat. It should have pockets that are practical but also functional; they’re meant to help their owner carry the essentials outdoors.

Now, let’s talk about the ritual of re-waxing, which I’ve learned holds nearly meditative qualities. Re-waxing is crucial for maintaining your jacket’s weather resistance and its performance, but it’s also an opportunity to bond with your garment. Selecting the right wax, preparing the fabric, and applying it can feel almost therapeutic. Plus, watching your jacket transform back into its water-repellent glory can be immensely satisfying. Just remember: a little care goes a long way, and treating your jacket with the reverence it deserves ensures it remains a stylish staple for years to come.

You could certainly take up this chore yourself—and for year-to-year rewaxing, this may be worth your time and money. However, in more intricate cases, or much like 25,000 mile checkup for your car, you might want to leave that to a professional, and it might require more than a simple oil change.

Crafting Stories: A Conversation with Raffael Flores-Contreras

A professional like, say, Raffael Flores-Contreras—I had the pleasure of connecting with Raffael, the talented visionary and owner of Raw Meat & Repair Company. Our conversation was nothing short of enlightening, as he graciously shared his insights and provided thoughtful responses to this topic of repair and restoration.

A bit of background before I share the Q&A with Raffael. My appreciation for the craftsmanship behind waxed cotton really started after reading about the art of rewaxing, repair, and restoration in one of my favorite publications, WM Brown. Specifically, it was a profile on Raffael, written by Eric Twardzik and featuring impressive photography by Nick Rapaz in their Fall 2023 issue. It was only natural to use this as a starting point for our piece on repair and restoration.

In the world of waxed cotton jackets, each garment carries a unique story, but what happens when that story takes a turn for the worse? This curiosity sparked our series of questions, aimed at discovering how Raffael breathes new life into heavily worn waxed cotton jackets. “Any day at the workshop is a rollercoaster of experiences,” he shared. “Nobody comes in with anything simple; my line of work is far from cookie-cutter.”

His most daunting challenges often arise with jackets that have seen neglect—those where the wax has depleted, leaving the fabric vulnerable to the elements. Picture this, as Raffael suggested: a jacket left in a cupboard after being wet, only to rot and crumble like a forgotten cookie. It’s a grim scenario, one that causes any jacket lover to shudder as the jacket is quite literally dissolving. It would be grim, be it not for technicians such as Raffael; in this case, like a surgeon, he’ll meticulously examine each piece under the light, identifying the flaws and assessing how far the damage has spread. But his approach isn’t merely technical; it combines artistry and ingenuity, allowing him to replace panels, sleeves, and pockets with a fresh perspective on textures and colors.

When a waxed cotton finds its match, it often leaves its new owner to marvel at its resilience. “Nothing embodies British style quite like waxed cotton, just as nothing embodies American fashion like denim,” he explains. "Our initial passion was for denim—we truly became avid raw denim enthusiasts. This journey led us to recognize the striking parallels between waxed cotton and denim, culminating in a splendid realization of their shared qualities and timelessness.”

Much of this shared timelessness is in the journey itself, the aging process—the beautiful patina and fading—that adds character and a unique story to the garment. As Raffael eloquently puts it, “Much like denim, waxed cotton improves with age, and repairs further enhance its appeal, celebrating the story behind each piece.”

But how do we ensure that these rugged companions last a lifetime and are worth the investment? Raffael recommends a simple maintenance routine: re-wax your jacket once a year or whenever you notice thinning areas.

“Just like your favorite leather shoes need polishing, a little rewaxing goes a long way,” he emphasizes, sharing that jackets cared for since the 1940s still maintain their pristine condition thanks to regular rewaxing.

While tradition plays a significant role in Raffael's process, he also embraces innovation. “We source original fabrics and linings from England as the official purveyors of the British Millerain Co.,” he explains, showcasing his commitment to authenticity. He’s mastered techniques that blend both old and new, such as Sashiko stitching, which not only reinforces, but adds a distinct aesthetic; and French binding, which finishes the edges of the fabric while providing additional durability with a polished look.

A testament to this mastery, which 23 years in the fashion industry can provide, is perhaps my favorite quote from the interview: "We firmly believe that to break a rule, one must first master it." These words hold a captivating challenge—and something our very own Jasper seeks to embody.

Raffael's passion for his work is infectious, reminding us that the act of caring for these garments is as important as the jackets themselves. So, as you don your waxed cotton jacket, possibly even the Cairngorm Field Explorer, next fall, know that beneath its rugged exterior lies a story waiting to unfold, one that you too can help shape with a bit of care and attention.

And for those eager to connect further, Raffael is always open to conversations—I can attest firsthand—by email, Instagram chat, or even over coffee on a spring day in Brooklyn. He embodies the spirit of community and craftsmanship, ensuring that every jacket he touches is steeped in history while looking forward to the adventures yet to come.

Sealing Our Legacy of Waxed Cotton

As we wrap up this week’s edition of The Chronicles, I think it goes without saying that investing in a waxed cotton jacket is not merely a nod to style; it’s a commitment to craftsmanship and longevity. These jackets are a perfect blend of durability and elegance, embodying a rich heritage that resonates with modern sensibilities. As we’ve learned, proper care—including the essential practice of re-waxing—can transform these garments into cherished staples in your outerwear collection.

As we move forward, I’m excited to share more about Raffael Flores-Contreras and his inspiring journey at Raw Meat & Repair, where he breathes new life into beloved jackets. Expect additional content in the coming months that delves deeper into the world of rewaxing, repair, and restoration—showing how thoughtful garment care enhances both the aesthetic and narrative of your investment. Each of these jackets tells its own story, and with the right care, those stories will continue to unfold for years to come. So, embrace the beauty of a well-loved and eventually, a well-worn, waxed cotton jacket and become part of a growing culture that values tradition, artistry, and sustainability in fashion.

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Huge thank you to Raffael for taking the time to chat with us. Founded in 2022, Raw Meat & Repair Company in Brooklyn specializes in repairing, restoring and customizing high-quality clothing made from denim, leather, waxed cotton, and more. You can find the Raw Meat & Repair shop at their New York address: 89 Grattan St, Brooklyn, NY 11237. Follow them on Instagram at @rawmeatandrepairco.